Exfoliation is often overlooked in our beauty routines. Yet, this ultimate skin-loving routine offers numerous benefits. Softer skin, better absorption of skincare products, and a boosted radiance—try it, you won't be able to live without it!
What is the purpose of exfoliation?
Exfoliating exfoliates the skin, meaning it rids it of dead skin cells, dust, and other impurities that accumulate on its surface throughout the day. Whether you have normal, combination, dry, or oily skin, exfoliating activates cell renewal. Newly generated skin cells replace old ones. In other words, the epidermis is renewed. The skin is smoothed and refined, pores are unclogged, and the complexion regains its radiance. Exfoliating also allows sebum to naturally drain away, thus limiting the appearance of unsightly imperfections. It also greatly facilitates the penetration of skincare products and enhances the benefits of their active ingredients.
Which scrub should I choose for my skin?
Depending on whether you want to exfoliate your body or your face, the exfoliation will vary. There are two main types: mechanical exfoliation and chemical exfoliation. Mechanical or "grain" exfoliation is, as its name suggests, the result of mechanical friction between grains on the skin, which loosens surface impurities. Chemical or "grain-free" exfoliation is done by chemical action. It contains acids with exfoliating properties, also called AHAs and BHAs. These acids act like Pac-Man, cutting and nibbling at the bonds between dead cells to detach them from the epidermis.
Grain scrubs tend to be slightly abrasive. They are often used to exfoliate body skin, which is thicker than facial skin. At Payot, we love the Granité Exfoliant Corps. Enriched with rose quartz microcrystals and argan shells, it combines mineral and plant-based grains for liberated, soft, and delicately satiny skin. However, mechanical scrubs can still be adapted to facial skin if chosen correctly. The Exfoliating Oil Jelly is the perfect example. Its small raspberry grains dot a delicate pink jelly and exfoliate your pretty face without damaging it. Generally gentler, chemical scrubs are the preferred facial exfoliation.
Not all AHAs in chemical peels have the same properties. Choose the most appropriate ones based on your skin's needs. Emotional skin should opt for fruit acids, while mature skin prefers glycolic acid and its anti-aging properties.
How often should I use my scrub?
With some exceptions, and this will always be explicitly stated on the product, exfoliation is generally done once or twice a week, no more. It is always done on clean skin and should be followed by a moisturizer. Indeed, exfoliation helps remove dead cells and impurities accumulated on the skin's surface, but it tends, in the process, to weaken its protective barrier. To obtain optimal results and strengthen the hydrolipidic film, moisturize deeply. Better still, the skin is thinner after exfoliation, making it particularly receptive to the active ingredients in skincare and absorbing them more easily. It's therefore the ideal time to pamper it.
Some occasions are more conducive to exfoliation than others. Exfoliating your skin a few days before sun exposure allows you to enjoy a more even tan. Be careful, however, as exfoliation can weaken skin, so don't forget to apply a protective sunscreen before going out in the sun. Exfoliating before hair removal also offers better results and limits ingrown hairs. However, it's best to avoid exfoliating your skin if you have sunburn or just after sun exposure to avoid irritation.
How do I apply my scrub?
For the body, classic mechanical exfoliation is usually applied to damp skin, directly in the bath or shower. For particularly dry and rough areas, it can be simply applied to dry skin. With or without a scrub mitt, grain exfoliation is used by massaging the body from the bottom up using circular motions to promote blood circulation. It is then rinsed off with warm water, but the bravest among you can finish their exfoliation ritual with a jet of cold water to stimulate this same blood circulation and tighten the skin's pores!
For the face, as the skin is more sensitive than on the body, be sure to use gentle circular motions, without rubbing. Move from the inside to the outside of the face and from top to bottom to activate lymph drainage, avoiding the eye area and focusing slightly on the T-zone. Then rinse the mechanical scrub with clean water and gently dry your face with a clean towel. The enzymes in chemical scrubs generally work independently. You simply apply the product to your face and let it do its work for the indicated time.