You hear about it on social media, in magazines, or even when talking to your loved ones. The active ingredients contained in cosmetics are increasingly important and can influence your purchasing choices, but do you really know them? Is this cream better for my skin because it contains hyaluronic acid? Niacinamide, better in the serum or in the cream? Which active ingredient should I choose for a radiant complexion? To reduce wrinkles? Our experts will enlighten you.

Should you choose a serum or a cream?

We believe that serum is an essential step in your skincare routine. Often overlooked, this product is a true concentrate of active ingredients, and its place in your skincare routine makes it a valuable ally. Because it's applied to the skin just after cleansing, on skin that's still slightly damp and has slightly dilated pores, it penetrates more easily into the surface layers of the epidermis, allowing the skin to reap all its benefits.

Our recommendation: It's perfectly possible to use a serum and cream enriched with different active ingredients; the most important thing is to ensure the compatibility of these active ingredients. Retinol, for example, is a very powerful active ingredient that combines very well with hyaluronic acid, but it should not be mixed with vitamin C to avoid sensitizing or irritating the skin.

What concentration of active ingredient is required to be effective?

It's important to note that, on the subject of active ingredient concentration in cosmics, a treatment that has a high concentration of an active ingredient is not necessarily more effective than a similar treatment with a lower concentration. Why? Several factors play a role in the effectiveness of a treatment. First, what is called "optimal concentration." Indeed, some active ingredients reach their optimal concentration at 2%, which means that at 2%, it will be able to provide the skin with all its qualities. Above this level, this active ingredient can become irritating or cause unwanted effects such as skin dryness or redness.

More than the concentration of a particular active ingredient, it is important to consider the overall formulation of the product. Indeed, in a cream, for example, many other ingredients will come into play and contribute to the effectiveness of the product. If we take a hyaluronic acid moisturizer like our Source Adaptogenic Cream, for example, it certainly contains hyaluronic acid but also adaptogenic plants and shea butter. The skin needs water and lipids to be healthy. Here, water (hyaluronic acid) will be combined with a lipid (shea butter) to restore the skin barrier and reconstitute the hydrolipidic film. A hyaluronic acid cream that does not contain a nourishing agent will therefore not present the same clinical results, even if it is highly concentrated in hyaluronic acid.

Which active ingredients should you choose for more beautiful skin?


If you don't have any particular skin problems, we recommend two active ingredients that will help you improve the overall quality of your skin while strengthening it.

Hyaluronic acid: This is the most common active ingredient. Naturally present in the skin, it can retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a powerful ally for hydrating the skin and strengthening the skin barrier. This active ingredient can be used on all skin types, even the most sensitive or blemish-prone skin. It's an excellent base to boost the effectiveness of your daily routine.

Niacinamide: This is the name you'll find vitamin B3 in your cosmetic products. This active ingredient is known for its many smoothing properties. It improves ceramide production, helping to maintain hydration and protect the skin from external aggressions. It regulates sebum production, making it a great ally for oily skin. It also helps reduce wrinkles and even out skin tone by acting on pigment spots. Used daily, it helps restore radiance to the complexion and improve the overall appearance of the skin.

OUR RECOMMENDATION


To meet the needs of all skin types, PAYOT has created Neo-Serum, a daily facial serum enriched with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and cyclitols derived from the leaves of ginkgo biloba, an ancient tree with longevity properties. Used daily before your cream, this serum helps improve the overall appearance of the skin.

Anaïs Texier, E-commerce Manager at PAYOT
An expert skincare specialist, Anaïs deciphers skincare trends and shares her advice.