An active ingredient naturally present in the skin and widely used in the world of aesthetic medicine to combat wrinkles, hyaluronic acid raises a thousand and one questions: what effect does it have on my skin? Can all skin types use treatments formulated with hyaluronic acid? Interview with Ilana Fartouk, PAYOT R&D Manager.

Ilana, what exactly is hyaluronic acid?


Hyaluronic acid is a molecule found in the skin that provides a filling and hydrating effect. It's partly responsible for our plump and hydrated skin.

Its production is constant, but it degrades as quickly as it is produced. As we age, the degradation process accelerates and the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases. It is estimated that by the age of 50, men and women have only half the amount of hyaluronic acid they had in childhood. Over time, the skin's texture deepens: wrinkles and fine lines appear, and the skin loses its tone.

What is hyaluronic acid used for?


The term hyaluronic acid actually means several things. Hyaluronic acid molecules will penetrate the skin to varying degrees depending on their size (their molecular weight). The smaller the hyaluronic acid molecule, the more easily it will penetrate the different layers of the skin. The action will vary depending on where it acts.

Thus, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid increases the amount of epidermal hyaluronic acid. It acts on the surface of the epidermis by forming a film, like a water-filled cushion, which will maintain the skin's hydration and have an immediate tightening, smoothing, and plumping effect.

The low molecular weight one increases the amount of dermal hyaluronic acid and stimulates its production. It allows both the stimulation of fibroblasts (support cells) and thus the synthesis of collagen and an improvement in water capture to improve the cellular mattress of the skin.

One of our treatments from the Smooth anti-wrinkle range, for example, Smoothing Day Cream compensates for the natural loss of hyaluronic acid and boosts its production thanks to its formula enriched with a complex of herbal plants (extracts of Alpine Pine and Wild Pansy) and a duo of hyaluronic acids for skin protected from blue light and daily aggressions.

In which products can it be present?


Hyaluronic acid has the advantage of being naturally present in the skin, so it presents very little risk of allergy. This makes it a universal product that can be present in all remodeling, plumping, lifting, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing treatments; as well as in day creams, facial serums, treatments like the 10-day Smooth treatment or eye contour treatments.

Is hyaluronic acid suitable for all skin types?


Thanks to its hydrating and plumping properties, hyaluronic acid is ideal for skin lacking hydration, that needs to be plumped up or that is marked by the signs of aging. The most sensitive skin can use it; however, be careful with other components of the planned treatments (perfume, alcohol, essential oils) which are less optimal for sensitive skin.

Is hyaluronic acid suitable for all skin types?


Thanks to its hydrating and plumping properties, hyaluronic acid is ideal for skin lacking hydration, that needs to be plumped up or that is marked by the signs of aging. The most sensitive skin can use it; however, be careful with other components of the planned treatments (perfume, alcohol, essential oils) which are less optimal for sensitive skin.

Our hyaluronic acid-based products